RCM3 Replacement Flasher; rotator motor question

[Thunderboltlover]

Please read my most recent post further down this topic. Thanks!

[MysteryMachine]

Have you tried wiring it to the rcm1 like it's supposed to be? Not sure if that will make a difference. Are you sure you wired everything correctly? Is the relay on the left side doing anything? Mine is screwed up and was causing some issues

[Thunderboltlover]

I haven't wired it to the RCM1, and no, the relay isn't noticeably doing anything. I don't have the lead from the Alert/Attack terminal to the AF timer wired up (since I don't have a timer), but I would think the flasher would operate regardless as long as there is power to it (when the modulator switch is on "automatic" there isn't power to it, but as soon as I flip it to "test" it has the proper 240 VAC.

The relay, if I'm not mistaken, (correct me if I'm wrong), is there solely for running the flasher once its (the relay's) coil is energized by the AF timer's "fire" output, and the modulator manual test switch bypasses it (when set to "test") to directly power the flasher?

[MysteryMachine]

Honestly you might be right. I've never ran my rcm3 without having everything hooked up. I'm assuming your fuses are both good. Have you tried Nudging the wheel to see if that makes it spin? Not sure how the power goes through it might want to nudge it then turn on the switch

[Thunderboltlover]

I actually removed the fuse block and wired it directly, since it didn't have fuses in it when I removed it. I figured if the flasher and relay actually worked, then I'd put the fuse block (with new fuses) back in as a precaution. My RCM1 is so old (probably one of the originals, it wasn't one that came with this siren) that it doesn't have fuses in it, so I imagine that they're not absolutely vital in the RCM3 either.

I tried spinning it with the power on to the flasher via the test switch and it didn't go. The clock motor might be burned out?

[JasonC]

I'm not positive on this, but I believe the flasher uses an eddy-wheel motor. In other words, you need a load hooked to the output (LOAD) side of the flasher.

[Thunderboltlover]

Thanks for the tip, Jason!

I connected the solenoids to the RCM3. First time in God knows how many years those have operated. The county only ever tested Alert and Attack and the city used a pager system.

I flipped the modulator switch to "test" and high-tone solenoid kicked in...turned the eddy wheel by hand and then the low-tone solenoid kicked in. The flasher didn't rotate one bit.

The only thing left at this point is a defective clock motor. This really surprises me because I don't think the fire signal was ever used. The county only tested Alert and Attack; the control cabinets had two relays connected to them...I assume a dedicated landline connection for backup? Could have been that the AF timer was mounted somewhere else in the building too, I suppose?

The flasher is extremely rusty, even though it was located indoors inside the NEMA cabinets its entire operational life.

I might check with Derek Thompson to see what kind of flashers he installs as replacements...he installed at least one aftermarket flasher in one of Valley Springs, SD's two 1003's.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[CDV777-1]

Look closely at the flasher and make sure there isn't a broken wire from the coil to the terminals. But an ohm meter on it and see if it the coil is open.
Have no idea what the resistance should be.
The RCM relay is activated by the AF and just turns on the RCM3 if I remember my cabinet operation correctly.
I saw a while back online that the flashers are still available through one sign company. They were pretty pricey though.

[Westgate Thunderbolt]

There are solid state flasher replacements that are available as well.

[Thunderboltlover]

Flasher:

The wires from the coil to the terminals were perfectly intact. I put a multimeter (set to ohms) directly on the coil leads after removing the coil from the flasher body since the terminals were EXTREMELY rusty. It read infinity, so it's open.
I will proceed from here in building a new flasher or even a new RCM3 altogether. I found one I really like, but I'm not sure if it is the right specs (230 VAC, DPDT, insertable into an eight-port socket (which I have four spares, so that wouldn't be a problem). Obviously it's the right voltage, but is DPDT what I would want?
Specs:
http://stevenengineering.com/Tech_Suppo ... 0FLASH.PDF
Here are some pictures of my current flasher. It's wildly corroded despite having been indoors its entire life:










Update 8/2/13: Derek said he has a flasher available for $75 plus shipping. The alternative is a solid-state. I'm mulling this over...the price difference is negligible.

Rotator motor:



It is a Sears/Craftsman 1/2 HP motor. The plate says 115 VAC. It has a capacitor on it. I couldn't open the capacitor cover--it must have JB Weld on the screws. I'd like to wire it to run on 240 VAC so it can be run by my RCM1. In case the picture isn't clear, there are two black wires, one red wire, and one white wire coming out of the motor. Would it be possible to run this on 240 VAC?