Finally got some work done on my T-bolt A

[CDV777-1]

What's going on with that upper bearing? It looks like there is some type of thick washer stuck in there between the bearing and the top nut. That shouldn't be there. Also it looks like the upper bearing nut lock ring is gone. Was there one on there when you removed the bearing. It's the thin flat washer thing that goes between the upper bearing and nut. It has tabs that bend up and keep the nut from coming loose.

Here's a pic of a lock ring washer next to a upper bearing nut. Did you have one of these?



Replacing the lower bearing doesn't involve taking any of the motor windings apart. The sirens I rebuilt for Valley View were in similar shape to the one you have. I replaced the motor bearings on all those sirens and never touched the windings because the insulation was so old it would have been asking for trouble to mess with it.

What are you going to make your new collector ring blocks out of?

[tachi88]

What's going on with that upper bearing? It looks like there is some type of thick washer stuck in there between the bearing and the top nut. That shouldn't be there. Also it looks like the upper bearing nut lock ring is gone. Was there one on there when you removed the bearing. It's the thin flat washer thing that goes between the upper bearing and nut. It has tabs that bend up and keep the nut from coming loose.



Replacing the lower bearing doesn't involve taking any of the motor windings apart. The sirens I rebuilt for Valley View were in similar shape to the one you have. I replaced the motor bearings on all those sirens and never touched the windings because the insulation was so old it would have been asking for trouble to mess with it.

The original star ring was so rusted and damaged I had to replace it, it so far works just fine. The lock washer is only temporary until I find a replacement. So far every hardware store I went to was stumped for some reason so I am sort of at a stand still with it.

He said the interior is too corroded for attempting to remove the chopper but I will try it anyway.

What would be the safest way?

And for the collector ring blocks I was told were made out of a phenolic material. I need to figure out how or where I can have these made.

[CDV777-1]

If the siren won't be run that much some non-locking loctite would probably work if you can't find a lock ring. Actually Federal probably still sells that part. It should be the same as the lock ring on a model 2 siren. Don't know how much they would want for it. Never know with them. It'll either be reasonable or ridiculous. No in between.

Obviously you can't get the blocks anymore unless someone on the board has some spares. I don't. BUT! It just so happens that I have a drawing for that goofy block. I took the dimensions off of collector ring block several years ago and drew it up. I think the original is phenolic or garolite or something like that. Not sure exactly what though.

[Westgate Thunderbolt]

That sheet metal is zinc galvanized for corrosion resistance. Any harsh media blasting will strip that galvanizing right off and leave the steel exposed for future corrosion. The Arizona dry and salt free climate appears to have been very kind as to not rust the sheet metal. Just a suggestion, but I would just strip the paint off myself with paint stripper rather than destroying the already in place corrosion resistance. Allot of the paint looks to have come off already.

I can't tell for sure, but you may have gotten narrow cartridge bearings, hence the need to add a spacer washer. I have purchased the WC (Wide Cartridge) 87502 bearings, and they fit fine. I had a bearing supplier tell me I could add a spacer washer on a narrow cartridge bearing that they had as an option, but I opted for the WC. Was the inner race the same width as the stock ones?

You can get the toothed lock washers and the bearing lock nuts from any bearing supplier. Both the nut and washer are less than a couple dollars a piece. I have purchased these from two different suppliers in Phoenix, and the price was relatively the same. There are some on eBay, but I couldn't get the seller to respond for nothing so I went elsewhere. On eBay you can look under Whittet-Higgins bearing lock nuts and washers. For any manufacture the part number for the nut is N-02 and the washer is W-02 (Whittet-Higgins washer part number is WH-02).

Justin

[tachi88]

That sheet metal is zinc galvanized for corrosion resistance. Any harsh media blasting will strip that galvanizing right off and leave the steel exposed for future corrosion. The Arizona dry and salt free climate appears to have been very kind as to not rust the sheet metal. Just a suggestion, but I would just strip the paint off myself with paint stripper rather than destroying the already in place corrosion resistance. Allot of the paint looks to have come off already.

I can't tell for sure, but you may have gotten narrow cartridge bearings, hence the need to add a spacer washer. I have purchased the WC (Wide Cartridge) 87502 bearings, and they fit fine. I had a bearing supplier tell me I could add a spacer washer on a narrow cartridge bearing that they had as an option, but I opted for the WC. Was the inner race the same width as the stock ones?

You can get the toothed lock washers and the bearing lock nuts from any bearing supplier. Both the nut and washer are less than a couple dollars a piece. I have purchased these from two different suppliers in Phoenix, and the price was relatively the same. There are some on eBay, but I couldn't get the seller to respond for nothing so I went elsewhere. On eBay you can look under Whittet-Higgins bearing lock nuts and washers. For any manufacture the part number for the nut is N-02 and the washer is W-02 (Whittet-Higgins washer part number is WH-02).

Justin

The bearing is a 6202, which was the same physical size as the original 87502.

I will be stripping it down sometime next week, I suppose I would actually save money as well by skipping the sandblasting. Thanks for the input.

I will look around for that lock ring then on the net. Surprisingly the washer I have in place managed to fit when I put it back together. Even holds when it runs.

Obviously you can't get the blocks anymore unless someone on the board has some spares. I don't. BUT! It just so happens that I have a drawing for that goofy block. I took the dimensions off of collector ring block several years ago and drew it up. I think the original is phenolic or garolite or something like that. Not sure exactly what though.

Thanks for the dimensions! All I need now is to figure out where to get them made.

[holler]

Actually, the 87502 is slightly thicker than the 6202. Look at it again.

[tachi88]

Actually, the 87502 is slightly thicker than the 6202. Look at it again.

Ah, so it is. Good eye, seems I still have a lot to learn.

[holler]

You can use the 6202 in place of the 87502 (much cheaper), you just have to put some wavy thrust washers under the bearing.

[tachi88]

You can use the 6202 in place of the 87502 (much cheaper), you just have to put some wavy thrust washers under the bearing.

Would you know the best way to get a new washer?

[TimeAttack]

bloo its you! never knew you were on the boards haha, its great to see that you're working on the tbolt agian.